Ryba po Grecku (Polish Greek-Style Fish)

Ryba po grecku is the Polish Greek-style fish we put on the Wigilia (Christmas Eve) table: fried cod under a thick layer of carrot, celeriac, parsley root and onion stewed with tomato, served cold.

How it is made: the fish is dusted in flour and fried, the vegetables are grated and stewed with allspice and bay, finished with tomato purée, then the two are layered in a dish and chilled.

The useful bit: make it the day before. It tastes better once the fish has had a night under the vegetables, and on Christmas Eve it comes straight out of the fridge.

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Ryba po Grecku (Polish Greek-Style Fish)

About 40 minutes of prep and 40 of cooking, plus a few hours to chill. It serves 6.

Why Is It Called Greek Fish?

It is not Greek at all. Ryba po grecku became popular in Poland in the Communist years, when dishes were often named after other countries, like herring Japanese style or goose Swedish style. The name comes from a “Greek sauce” of carrot, celeriac, onion and parsley root cut in strips and cooked in oil, and the tomato came later. Today it is a regular on the Christmas Eve table, cold and made ahead.

Ryba po Grecku and the Christmas Eve Carp

Carp is the best known Wigilia fish, with herring close behind, and in one survey Alaska pollock came third. My family kept a live carp in the bath before Christmas, which was great for kids. Carp is usually fried plain or pickled in vinegar, though. Ryba po grecku is made with white fish, and cod is my first choice. The rest of the meal is in my Polish Christmas Eve dinner guide.

Equipment You’ll Need

Two pans, a grater and a dish to layer it in.

A Closer Look at the Ingredients

Simple vegetables and a firm white fish.

• Cod loins Cod is my first choice. It is better than the others and costs more, and frozen cod loins work well. Skinless is easier to eat cold. Instead: Alaska pollock or haddock.
• Plain flour A thin coat for frying, nothing more. Instead: oat flour or cornflour (cornstarch) for a gluten free coat.
• Carrots Most of the topping, and most of its sweetness.
• Parsley root Looks like a pale carrot and tastes like a stronger, more pungent parsley. It gives the topping its savoury edge. Instead: parsnip, or a piece of celeriac (celery root), which is stronger.
• Celeriac Grated in with the carrots, it gives the topping a stronger, savoury depth. It was part of the old Greek sauce. Instead: 2 celery sticks, finely chopped, or leave it out.
• Onion Softened gently, a mild sweetness under the vegetables. Instead: a leek.
• Tomato purée Concentrated tomato for colour and sharpness. In the US it is sold as tomato paste. Instead: passata, which makes a milder, wetter topping.
• Allspice and bay The usual pair in Polish cooking, for a warm background. They come out before serving.

Ingredient Substitutions

• Fish: cod is my first choice, and frozen cod loins work well. Alaska pollock and haddock are the alternatives.
• Parsley root: parsnip, or a piece of celeriac (celery root). Or leave it out and use more carrot.
• Celeriac: 2 celery sticks, or leave it out.
• Onion: a leek.
• Tomato purée: passata for a milder topping, or half and half.
• Flour: oat flour or cornflour for a gluten free coating.

How to Make Ryba po Grecku, Step by Step

Full quantities are in the recipe card below.

1. Prepare the Fish. If the fish is frozen, thaw it fully in the fridge first, then rinse off any ice glaze. Pat the fillets very dry with kitchen paper, cut them into 6 to 8 pieces and season both sides with the salt, pepper and oregano.Dry fish is the whole trick here. Frozen fish holds a lot of water, and wet fish spits in the oil, turns the flour to paste and breaks up in the pan. Press it between sheets of kitchen paper until the paper stays dry.
2. Fry the Fish. Dust each piece in the flour and shake off the excess. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and fry the fish in batches for 3 to 4 minutes a side, until lightly golden and white all the way through. Wipe out the pan and add fresh oil between batches, as flour left behind burns. Lay the fish on a plate.The flour gives a thin coat that browns while the fish inside stays moist. Use a heavy pan and let it heat properly: a thin pan that is not hot enough is why the fish falls apart.Bake instead: lay the floured fish on an oiled tray and bake it until just cooked, if you do not want the smell of frying in the house.
3. Soften the Onion. Heat the oil for the vegetables in a wide, clean pan over a low to medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook it gently for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring, until soft but not coloured.Gently is the word: you want it soft and sweet, not browned. A leek works too; wash it well after chopping, as grit hides between the layers.
4. Stew the Vegetables. Add the grated carrots, celeriac and parsley root, the allspice, bay leaves, paprika, salt and the water. Stir, cover with a lid and stew on a low heat for 20 minutes, stirring now and then, until the vegetables are soft.Grate them coarsely, on the big holes, so the topping has some body and does not turn to mush. Keep the lid on so they steam in their own juices, and add a splash more water if the pan looks dry.Parsley root: the pale root of the parsley plant, sold in Polish shops, see my guide to Polish ingredients in the US. Parsnip is the swap, or just more carrot.
5. Add the Tomato. Stir in the tomato purée and cook with the lid off for 5 minutes more, until thick. Pick out the bay leaves and allspice, then taste and add more salt or pepper if it needs it.Concentrated tomato purée gives the topping its colour and a sharp edge against the sweet carrot. For a milder topping, use half purée and half passata. If it tastes too sweet, a squeeze of lemon or a spoonful of mustard sorts it out.
6. Layer the Dish. Spread a third of the warm vegetables over the base of a dish about 25 x 35 cm. Lay the fish on top in a single layer and cover it with the rest of the vegetables, right to the edges.The fish should be completely covered, so it soaks up the juices and does not dry out in the fridge. Use a glass or ceramic dish with a lid, or cover it well with foil.
7. Cool and Chill. Leave the dish to cool, then cover it and put it in the fridge within 2 hours. Chill it for at least 4 hours, or better, overnight.Ryba po grecku tastes better the next day, once the fish has taken on the flavour of the vegetables. Do not leave it out on the side all afternoon, as in my guide to cooling food.
8. Serve. Take the dish out of the fridge 30 minutes before serving and scatter over some chopped parsley. Serve it cold, or warm it, covered with foil, in the oven at 170°C (150°C fan) for about 15 minutes, until hot all the way through.Cold is how it usually goes on the Christmas Eve table, and half an hour out of the fridge takes the chill off. If you warm it, do it in the oven and do not stir, or the fish breaks up.

Recipe Card for Ryba po Grecku

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Storing and Reheating

Keep it covered in the fridge and eat it within 3 days, counting the day you make it, as in my fridge life guide. If you serve it warm, reheat only what you need, once, until it is steaming hot.

The finished dish does not freeze well, as the fish can turn mushy once thawed. The vegetable topping freezes well on its own, so you can make that ahead and fry the fish fresh. Do not try to keep the topping in jars in the cupboard: vegetables in oil are not safe preserved that way.

What to Serve With Ryba po Grecku

On Christmas Eve it goes on the table with the other cold dishes, after the barszcz. Over the Christmas days it sits well next to a sałatka jarzynowa. On any other day it is a light meal with bread or boiled potatoes.

FAQ for Ryba po Grecku

A Few Words from the Chef

Dry the fish properly and make it the day before. The vegetables need a night to soak into the fish.