Kotlety Schabowe (Polish Breaded Pork Cutlets)

Dry the Pork. Pat the pork chops fully dry with kitchen paper. Do not rinse them: washing raw meat does not make it safer and splashes bacteria around the sink, and a dry surface is what the coating needs to grip.

Pound the Cutlets. Place each chop on a board under a folded tea towel and pound with a meat mallet to about 7 mm (¼ inch), working from the middle outwards so it finishes an even thickness. Nick through the rim of fat in two or three places so it does not curl.

Season. Season both sides of each cutlet with salt and pepper now, before the crumb, so the seasoning goes on the meat and not the crust.

Set Up the Breading. Set up two shallow bowls, beaten eggs in one and breadcrumbs in the other. Keep one hand for the wet bowl and one for the dry, so your fingers do not end up wearing the coating.

Heat the Lard. Heat a large, heavy pan over medium-high heat and melt enough lard to cover the base. Get it properly hot first: a breadcrumb dropped in should sizzle briskly and start colouring within a few seconds.

Bread the Cutlets. Dip each cutlet in the egg, let the excess run off, then press it into the crumbs in one thin, even layer. The crumb is there to insulate the meat from the fat, so a thick jacket burns before the middle is warm.

Fry. Fry one or two at a time for about 2 minutes per side, until deep golden brown, adjusting the heat so they brown evenly without burning. If you want a cue rather than a clock, the fat bubbles hard around the cutlet while the meat is still releasing juice and quietens as it finishes. Do not crowd the pan. Between batches, wipe out any burnt crumbs and top up the lard. Serve hot, with a crisp salad on the side, or build one to suit.